The history of the San Isidro Doughnuts

Few things are as Madrilenian as San Isidro doughnuts. But why are they so popular, what is the history of the San Isidro doughnuts, are all doughnuts the same…?

When do you eat the rosquillas del santo?

Every May 15, the people of Madrid take a stroll through the Pradera de San Isidro to celebrate their patron saint’s festivities.

Dressed as chulos and chulapas, they stroll up and down the street, after visiting the hermitage of San Isidro, among the intense smell of the fried chicken and the ins and outs and the donut stalls of the Saint.

No one leaves without buying at least one donut, because once you’ve tried one, the experience is as addictive as a grandmother’s tortilla de patata.

What kind of San Isidro doughnuts are there?

Hundreds of donuts are displayed on the trays of street stalls and, although there is always an innovative stall that offers some culinary invention, the truth is that there are only four main flavors.

• Silly doughnuts: The most popular. Although their name does not invite you to be the chosen one, the silly doughnuts are the essence of the Madrid doughnut. They are the base on which you can build the foundations of a new doughnut, and even a 3-story house, since their consistency resists everything. Its origin dates back to the Middle Ages, without additions or frills, but not worse than the others, far from it.

• Ready-made doughnuts: A doughnut with fondant sugar added on top, hence the name.
• French doughnuts: With a touch of sophistication, as they have almonds on top.
• Rosquillas de Santa Clara: With dry meringue topping, which will spread all over your fingers as soon as you sink your teeth into it.

Origin of the rosquillas del Santo

Although the original origin of the doughnut recipe goes back to Roman times, the truth is that the doughnuts, as they are eaten in San Isidro, do not have so much tradition.

There is evidence that they were already being sold in the 19th century, although there are certain doubts as to their true origin. It is said that it was a local vendor known as “Aunt Javiera” who began to sell them at the patron saint festivities, with such success that in a short time she had strong followers who copied her recipe pretending to be relatives.

Apparently, this Javiera did not leave any descendants to inherit the tradition, but for a long time she had so many adopted children, as far as selling doughnuts is concerned, that even Ramón Gómez de la Serna dedicated some verses to her.

What is certain is that you can’t visit Madrid without trying some of the Saint’s doughnuts, but don’t worry if you don’t coincide with the San Isidro festivities, because at
Casa Mira
you will be able to try them even out of season, as they have been handmade since 1840.

My recommendation is that you accompany it with a little water, or white wine from Arganda, as tradition dictates, since it is capable of absorbing all the body fluids.